With designers like Nicolas Ghesquière (for Balenciaga) and Marc Jacobs returning to the excess of the ‘80s, it’s no surprise that Fall 2009 for Prada is nothing of the sort. Shoulder pads, day-glo colours and lots of shine have been traded in for matte fabrics resembling the Depression-era materials of the ‘30s and ‘40s.
In a time when the world is being hit with layoffs, cut backs and recessional fears, it’s to no surprise that Miuccia – known for her social commentary – chose to embrace our economic climate instead of cover it in glitter. While scouring Prada’s Fall 2009 collection it seemed no stretch of the imagination to picture these looks in black and white photos dug out of an old shoe box – save for the plunging-V furs.
From the hair, to the practical-shaped heel of the shoes, this look could have walked right off the streets of 1930s Europe.
The muted browns, burgundies, and deep greens recalled practicality and structure, two things on everyone’s mind. The cinched waists and conservative, briefcase-looking bags reflect the harsh reality of today’s poor economic state. It’s as if Prada herself is giving the recession back to us in the form of protective, strong armour we can face the world in. These clothes look like they could go from boardroom to tackle box. The feeling of an outdoors-woman is definitely here; someone who has to literally and figuratively bring home the bacon!
A Trend for the Times
This economic time can also be seen in other collections from Spring and Fall 2009. The return to basic, functional elements like denim has shown that designers want to present comfort fabrics, ones buyers can rely on and afford. Collections like Fall ’09’s William Rast and Diesel Black Gold shows presented a more masculine woman - one ready to hit the pavement. Torn jeans, basic T’s and moccasins were well represented on and off the runways.
There seemed to be a very Americana feel to a lot of the fall collections. With small towns being hit hard due to plant and business closures there was a great sense of keeping things local, representing the home front instead of more fantastical collections of late. Whether most of the pieces are actually being made in North America is doubtful, these pieces work to allow what was once old to be new again.
Why not dig up your old Levi’s, roll them up and pair them with some great heels? When times are tough it’s up to designers to put forward a look that is attainable to people, something that allows consumers to know everyone is in this boat together. The resurgence of denims, plaids and conservative looks are likely to be a much bigger hit than the opulent, ‘80s inspired looks that try to brush over today’s problems.
People certainly like to be entertained and allowed to forget their troubles, but the most recent looks from Jacobs may be more of a bad-haired slap in the face than anything else.
Robyn Shanks - My name is Robyn Shanks, I graduated from Ryerson University in Toronto with a degree in journalism in 2007. I've travelled to Europe ...
